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When I began cooking professionally, kidneys, like other types of offal were menu staples. They were often to be seen on breakfast menus, usually served devilled on toast which was a favourite of many a Victorian household. In recent years they have become little more than a supporting act for other ingredients in pies and puddings, which is a shame because to the offal aficionado they are a tasty treat, which can be cooked in a number of ways.
 Lambs Kidneys Kidneys are encased in a crisp white layer of fat known as suet and before the days of EC regulations it was popular to roast the kidney whole still encased in its own protective casing. A trimmed kidney will have had its outer membrane removed so all that is left to do is to remove the white inner gristle with a sharp knife. Kidney recipes tend to be quick and easy affairs, good with a splash of brandy or wine, a few mushrooms, some good bacon or a healthy pinch of cayenne. Kidneys are a perfect foil to sweet and sour flavours, the pan can be deglazed with good quality vinegar or sherry and the acidity balanced out with a pinch of sugar, some redcurrant jelly or a pile of roasted sweet onions. RecipesContent and picture © Miles Collins |